New Zealand Datsun Club

Hey Jorden,
Unless it's a very rare 63A with hydraulic clutch, then the stock driveshaft will be fine.
BUT, if you alter your rear suspention, you might then need to take a wee bit out of your driveshaft legnth.

Cheers Jordan, nah drive shaft is the same as the 4 speed as Bartman said.

It would be easier if you have an actual 5 speed gearbox cross member mount, but I used my 4 speed one. Just had to make those spacers (as shown in photos) to drop it down because as the gearbox is much bigger, it hit the floor with the 4 speed mount.

I slightly slotted the holes on my 4 speed mount as well, as the offset of the bolt holes on the 5 speed are slightly wider apart than the mount holes on the 4 speed cross member (if this makes sense)

I must admit I need to find a 5 speed one, at vtnz they said it 'needs attention'. The clutch fork is very close to the tunnel which made putting the cable on quite tricky. Other than that, everything lines up well, no issues with speedo or reverse light. Make sure you have an actual 5 speed clutch fork and there is also 2 different size release bearing holders, I used the one out of my 4 speed

I have more photos of what I did if you need

Cheers for all the info man. Unfortunately I missed out on the 5 speed that was on trademe recently but I will be keeping an eye out for one

Brought a cam from a fella on Facebook. Hopefully this will help with the power!

I don't know a lot about cam specs, what do you guys think? Will be running double valve Springs.





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If you don't have the matching lifters in the order they cam off that cam, then you'll need to get yours refaced. Otherwise the cam will go through the hardening pretty quick.
I'd even go so far as to follow the standard cam break in proceedure to break the lifters in, and run a High zinc oil.

Odd the spec sheet doesn't show the lobe seperation angle?

I managed to pick up a 5 speed and an a14 running engine for cheap, it was mounted in a suzuki.
Unfortunatly the fella I brought it off broke the tail housing of the box so I have had to split it and have it welded back on. A hassle not needed.

For my final year tech project at school I've built an engine stand which you can mount any A series engine and box and start it up on.

I have mounted the a14 that I got with the 5 speed and have been tuning it slowly.

I have decided to install my cam into this engine and put the a15 head on. Have hummed over putting it in the a12 and I have decided that I am aiming to increase the horse power overall so I may as well use the bigger engine to start with.

Plan is to take the head off, inspect the bores, slap some new rings in depending on how it looks and then have the cam installed. A15 head will be skimmed down 1-3mm according to how the close the valves are to the piston with the cam installed, will check this with some play dough. Do not want to have to fly cut the pistons.
Engine does not smoke so am hopeful a small freshen up will see it last.
A15 head will have new stem seals as well.

Any other small modifications that are beneficial? Have an e15 electronic dizzy ready to go in as well

Wheels can change a car pretty quick!

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Needs whitewalls to set it off.

A12 out and A14 in!

Ended up with:

9.8:1 Compression
Cam with 2500rpm-6500rpm range
9.4kg Flywheel (2kg lighter than standard)
Firmer valve springs
Ported and polished to my ability
Twin 40mm dellortos

New alloy radiator on its way, also have to install the e15 electronic dizzy at some point down the track.
Will adjust the tappets and re torque the head tomorrow, then off for a big drive!

Running well and much more grunt than the a12

Here is a quick video of a test start with single carb
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WxG_uWe ... e=youtu.be

Lol so i forgot to post the juicy photos






Pistons flycut for clearance





H89 head, water jackets tapped and grub screw inserted. Also drilled a small hole to locate a roll pin from the dellorto manifold to keep it alinged