240znz's HS30 rebuild

[240znz]

There has plenty of debate on the net about the reasons why early HS30's had different components. The US market is the reason it is generally agreed. This is all from memory so don't hang me to dry on this stuff but it will be close to accurate. There are many discussions on CCZC from Alan T who knows more than most.

The first Nissan shipment or the HLS30's (LHD 240z) to the US were the lightest of all the S30's as the steel used was thin. These sub 12000 chassis are sort after for racing for obvious reasons. US authorities decided that the steel used was not strong enough and a thicker skin was used as well as more side protection measures in the doors. Nissan made the changes necessary. These early cars were named by the US market as "Series 1" (S1). S1 does not apply to RHD models and here is why.

Around the first 500 HS30 (RHD 240z), were made when the S1 were in production so they share the same early quirks. There isn't a clear cut off like the S1, that is why you find different components used in car a past VIN 500ish. It appears that Nissan just went to the parts bin and used up all the stock they had for the S1. So that is why you have the vented B pillar, chrome hooks etc on 864 which means you have the S2 body shell.

It isn't unclear when the parts bin "ran out" as I've seen some S1 bits on VIN's near 1200.

[classicdat]

Thanx James,
The fuel flaps amuse me, some have locks, some have catches without keys, some have a recess so you can flick them open with your finger. James do you know if there is any Rhyme or reason to these?

[240znz]

Nope, no idea idea sorry but good question and worth a dig. Mine has the lock but like the tool hatches, it may well have been retro fitted which is a good idea.

I've seen some with the plastic turn knobs and some with the finger flippers but didn't take notice of the VIN's.

[classicdat]

I have a mix of chrome twist knobs and key locks, but as you point out how would we know if it was original or not.

[240znz]

Heater box dismantle and reassembly almost done. Not too difficult really but a lot of phaffing about with finding new foam seals, a couple of hours of sanding and painting.

I had the heater core pressure tested years ago and all good. Test fitting it released some dry rusty or clay coloured debris which was in the matrix. Weird! So I shook it some more and more flicked out. Even more curiously, I took to it with my rubber mallet and chunks came out. I'm now wondering if the internals are clogged. So taped the vacuum cleaner to one end and hit it some more to get even more out. Quite a pile. Spent almost 30 minutes with good enough results...I hope.

Any ideas what it was? I haven't pulled any heaters apart before and wonder if this is just the remains of some early radiator sealing gunk or something similar. It couldn't have been much good for the engine cooling galleries.

As getting to this heater matrix again is a PITA, what would suggest I do to ensure that it is clear?

[Datto_610]

You could run a radiator flush through it?? Block one end off fill it up, give it a shake then flush out with water?

[classicdat]

Well you'd never guess but I have worked on it again. Only the heater core out of the heater assembly. Heater core appears to be in very good condition considering it's nearly 40. It could have had a replacement but it does have the correct decals so it tends to make me think it is at the very least a stock part.

Wal, must organise a time for you to come around and spray the wheel wells. May as well keep the momentum up.

I am looking at the photo you posted, (and must say I am impressed with your persistence and determination to get this heater finished, photo from first post, back on page one, 2009!), I would get the tanks removed and cleaned properly, it would be really annoying if the heater didn't heat or clear the screen, or even worse blocked the cooling system causing issues, and it is a pain to get at if you need to do it in the future.
Get the pro's to sort it, properly

[Bartman]

As much as it sucks, radiators (And heater cores) actually corrode from the inside out when they are sitting in dry storage.
+1 for getting it done by a shop. odds are they'll tell you it's shagged. BUt better to fix it now, than to have to pull your car apart once it's all finished.

[240znz]

Dash gauges going in with some persuasion as new dash is a little tight in places.
Trying to find a replacement gauge dimmer (open to ideas).
Cleaned vertical demister hatch glass and dug out new seals. Blue tint off parts car. Polished stainless inserts.
Cleaned 1/4 window glass cleaned and stainless frame polished. Dug out new seals.
Cleaned side windows, ready to go into doors. Can't find window regulators yet....more digging.
Some linkages back installed.
New blade fuse box ordered (sold one of the teenagers).

See what happens when you tear an AC joint after coming off a mountain bike!

[2 doors]

ohhh progress